The city is a great introduction to princely Gujarat-a former Nawabi capital, filled with palaces, minarets and colonial period buildings. A short distance from Girnar, Junagadh was the historic capital of the Mauryan and Gupta dynasties upto the 5th century AD, the Chudasama Rajputs in the 9th-15th century, the governors of Sorath appointed by the Mughal empire in the 17th century, and finally the Babi Nawab dynasty upto 1947.
The city is dominated by the Uparkot fort, which rises from a hill, with old palaces, Buddhist caves, stepwell, tanks, moats and huge battlemented walls. The 2 maqbara complexes, the old palace(part of it is now the Darbarhall museum), the Junagadh museum, Narsinh Mehta choro and Sakkarbagh zoological park are other attractions of Junagadh.
For some inexplicable reason ignored by travel operators and FIT tourists, Junagadh offers a tremendous variety of monuments, museums and wildlife, and a unique at mosphere of the Nawabi period like a miniature Hyderabad.
The name itself evokes visions of old forts and medieval walls, palaces and tombs. And yet it seems almost paradoxical, that Junagadh is best known neither for the majestic Uparkot fortress which still dominates the city nor for the newer walled city of the Nawabi period, but for it's association with emperor Ashoka, who relinquished warfare after witnessing death and destruction during the battle of Kalinga and carved inscriptions preaching the Buddhist philosophy of ethical conquest rather than military conquest.
ASHOKA'S ROCK EDDICTS
One of the major sets of rock eddicts of Ashoka is still legibly inscribed on a rock on the outskirts of Junagadh, and protected by an archaelogical survey of India building. The inscriptions were reported in 1822 by Todd, but really came to light only in 1837 when Rev. Dr John Wilson copied them and in 1843 when the Royal Asiatic society published them in the Bombay branch journal. The 16 principals preach virtues like matery of the senses, purity of thought, gratitute, devotion, self control, secular thinking and kindness, while oposing animal sacrifice and greed. They speak of his repentance for death and destruction caused during wars waged by him, his pilgrimages and his attempts to send people around the realm to preach the principles of non violence.Another famous peace maker in the historic annals of Junagadh is the religious poet Narsinh Mehta who dwelt here from 1414-1480 AD. His shrine can still be seen in the city, and his portrait stands alongside one of Mahatma Gandhi in the railway stati.
NAWABI PALACES
But by the middle of the 19th century, peace reigned under the British umbrella,and the Nawabs moved down from Uparkot, and started built the walled sections of Junagadh, which is still a picturesque city with monuments and gardens. The Nawabs depended for their state's development on assisitance from the British colonial rulers, and in consequence the preffered style of architecture was Venetian Gothic, as can be seen from the palaces and the public institutions-clock towers, schools, bazaars, hospitals, city gates, district court, prison and most of all, the imposing Bahauddin college. The buildings have thick walls, carvings, cornices and elegant columns outside, while the interiors had wall paintings and stucco or canvas false ceilings. The 160 sq foot hall of the Bahuddin college is noted for it's wood carvings seen on the timber roof, the galleries and the carved brackets, the Sardar bagh palace for it's stucco carvings and the Rang mahal palace for it's fancy canvas ceiling.
One of the best examples of the palace architecture of this period is the City palace near the Uparkot, which dates from 1870 Ad whose darbarhall is now a museum which has attempted to recreate with some success, the glory of 19th century Nawabi Junagadh. I found the darbarhall to be a showpiece of the period, when the Nawabi rule was at it's zenith, with silver plated thrones, fine carpets and huge chandeliers, but the tube lights mar the atmosphere-a real let down when there are so many chandeliers which could be used to illuminate the room. From here, I proceeded to the collection of howdahs and palanquins, which enhance the royal ambience, the prize exhibit being an exquisitely carved silver plated howdah with silver mer6maids at the corners and a silver tiger gaurding the velvet cushioned seats. In another room, the carpets and other textiles make an impressive spectacle- there is a red silk carpet set with diamonds like stars of a crimson sky, and some carpets lavishly embroidered with go thread. The royal armoury exhibits Nepalese Kukris, armour, turtle shell shields, swords, daggers, medieval weapons, rifles and period hand guns. Throughout the palace museum, you find royal portraits and paintings. Outside the city palace is partially burnt but offers a glimpse of it's old patrician architecture. The Willingdon dam at
Uparkot fort came up during the Nawabi period.
MAQBARA
The older complex of maqbaras (mausoleoms) of the Nawabs of Junagadh, located near Chitkana chowk offer some remarkable 18th century architecture with vertical columns, delicate carved arches, cornices and domes in a range of sizes, the whole accentuated by a wealth of brilliant stone carvings. The newer complex, near the town gates, is even more impressive and attractive, besides being better maintained. The naya Maqbara complex was started by Mahabat Khanji in 1878, completed in 1892 by his successor, Bahadur Khanji, and enshrined also Rasul Khanji in 1911 ADThe complex includes the mausoleom of Baha-ud-din, minster of Nawab Rasul Khanji, which has an almost funfairish flamboyance-4 minarets with pirouetting spiral staircases, a facade rich in stone carvings, beautiful silver doors and large sized domes mark the architecture of this tomb of the great minister in the Nawabi court, titled Vazir-e-azam. Beside the maqbaras is the Jumma mosque, dated to 1886-97 which has geometric rows of coloured pillars leading to a cool marble minbar, and an Islamic religious school.
Maqbara
OTHER NAWABI PERIOD MONUMENTS
Roaming around the streets of Junagadh look for a number of old havelis, known for their jarokhas (intricately bracketed balconies) and wood carvings and the town gates including the Majevdi gate, the Junagadh gate near the new Maqbara cluster and the Reay gate, an imposing 2 storeyed cresent archway with domes and minarets. The New Bazaar and the Sardar bagh garden are other reminders of the Nawabi period.
Ahmedabadcity Home | Tourism Home | Archealogy Trail | Beaches | Cities | Excursions | Fairs | Festivals | Folkart | Temple Trail | Wildlife | Weekends | Send Email